Sunday, October 11, 2009

'Ready to Wear' If You Dare

As Paris Fashion Week drew to a close, it seemed like we’d seen it all. Designers’ looks stepped out of their comfort zones and onto the runway this season. Most seemed to take a trip through the decades as inspiration for their Spring/Summer Ready-to-Wear collections.


Makeup trends embraced the usual red lip in an array of different shades. Hair was towered high, or slicked back into a tight chignon but rarely seen down. The faces of Chloe were fresh and ultra-natural and, like Christian Dior, incorporated feminine trends. John Galliano took a trip to the dark side, with models dawning smokey eyes and nearly black lips. Whether the face was clean, or the makeup packed on, there is one thing that was absent from Paris this season—eyebrows. Most were bleached and gave an other-worldly, yet somewhat creepy look. Barely-there eyebrows were used in shows from Lanvin to Jonathan Saunders and Prada.

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The week kicked off with the always wearable collection from Stella McCartney. Her A-List front row included Gwyneth Paltrow, Rachel Zoe, Rihanna and naturally, father Paul McCartney. The show began with flawlessly crafted silk jumpsuits and trousers paired with pale-colored jackets. Following these, Stella sent some of her brightest looks yet down the catwalk. There were bright yellow and blue floral chiffon dresses with frills cascading from the boddess to the floor. The looks were very seventies hippie-chic (two words I never thought I’d use in the same sentence.)
Overall, it was a clean, fresh-looking line. Everything from the Stella McCartney line is fashionable, functional, and could walk straight off the runway into everyday life.


Marc Jacobs joined Christian Dior in revisiting the underwear-as-outwear trend they had mastered seasons ago, but uniquely Jacobs incorporated it into an overwhelmingly distinct eighties theme. Oversized bows and neon prints graced the runway along with “Bill Cosby style sweaters” for men. The Marc by Marc Jacobs looks had a playful innocence this season with flouncy, high-wasted skirts, mini dresses, and delicate cardigans.


Chloe was abnormally forgettable this Fashion Week, packed with loose jackets, floor length skirts, and PLENTY of tan. It seemed very....mature, if you will. Although Chloe is usually undeniably fashion forward, they seemed to play it safe, and this was clearly not the season to do so.


Even Karl Lagerfeld was thinking out of the black-and-white-Chanel-tweed box when designing the new collection. The show had a barnyard backdrop, complete with hay. Pale pinks and tans were incorporated into the traditionally chic Chanel looks. There were plenty of structured blazers and a-line dresses all topped off with a dash of sparkle. The models walked the hay-filled catwalk in chunky-heeled clogs.

Lace was all over for the spring/summer 2010 collections in every form—the most flawless use of which came from John Galliano.


Galliano put on more than just a show in Paris. Models walked a runway alive with bubbles as he brought us into his dark, twisted dreams. Take blazers, bubble skirts, gowns, and everything in between; add flawlessly placed lace from head to toe, and you’ve got Galliano’s spring/summer 2010 RTW line. His romantic, old-Hollywood looks, complete with feathered hairpieces and lace gloves turned out as the highlight of the week to many. Katy Perry thought it was “by far the best,” and twittered, “It was a dark sexy dream of beautiful mental sparkling women.” I’m not completely sure what that means, but I’ll definitely second it.


As for the most questionable collection, I'll definitely say- hands down, Alexander McQueen. The show was interesting (to say the least) and left most wondering if what they just saw was pure brilliance, or just plain crazy. Reptile prints were the main theme and the pattern was incorporated into just about every look. McQueen showed a plethora of mini dresses with voluminous shoulders, and structured hips. His color scheme was yellow, grey, brown and most importantly, GOLD. The collection was very Russian snow princess-meets extraterrestrial. Each piece that came down was more extravagant than the next, but there was nothing quite as avant-garde as the SHOES. The models conquered the Alexander McQueen runway in ten inch heels. These towering snakeskin and metallic platforms absolutely stole the show.

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They’re obviously not even remotely sensible for everyday life, but I think they’re brilliant and well-made. Almost all of the collections’ shoes were on another level this season. For the first time in a while, footwear dominated fashion week. The boots were taller, the heels were higher, and the structural design was out of this world.


Vogue.com reported Tina Sloan of Guiding Light commenting in reference to the heels this season:


“In brute defiance of reality, we wear heels we can barely walk in and much like
sitting in the sun bathed in oil to get a darker tan or smoking so as not to eat
and get fat, we suffer the consequences. But somehow the consequences are too
far out to care about. It is just such fun to look glamorous in high, high
heels.”


Thoughts??

3 comments:

  1. Personally, the fashion industy although put on spectactular shows and ads, it gives fall inspirations to you ladies and even boys to become models. The industry has for years placed emphasis on the idea woman being a size 0. Young ladies get the idea that they are too fat and then comes eating disorders. Recently, the industry did a spread on what they call fuller figure woman that was outstanding. Is a size 8 ro a 10 really fat? If you take care of your self and maintain a good physical appearance, isn't that all that matters. Woman and men need to look at theirselves and find their comfort area and learn to accept this as their norm.

    As for the shoes, I would kill to be able to walk in them. Do they come in a size 16?

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  2. I totally loved your post this week! You covered all the shows so well. I couldn't get over how much the shoes seemed to dominate as well. I'm a huge fan of the Rachel Zoe Project, and the episode when she went backstage and was trying all the shoes on made me so jealous! I'm pretty sure it was after the Galliano show. I know there is no way I could ever fit my foot into one of those shoes, let alone walk in them after, but a girl can dream. Some of the styles were just so outrageous and I couldn't stand the light eyebrow thing. It made the models look just plain creepy. I really hope that look doesn't become the new thing in fashion. I'd prefer the crazy shoes to try to walk in first!

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  3. Those heels are ridiculous. There, I said it.

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